The
most commonly grown camellias in the colder climates are the sasanqua,
japonica, reticulata and more recently the hybrid types. The major
advantage of the sasanqua type is that it will tolerate a greater
degree of sun than other camellias and is thus more versatile as a
general garden plant. In addition they mainly flower in late autumn and
early winter when colour can be scarce in the garden. Camellia flower
forms are quite varied but the main types are single, semi-double,
informal double (including roseform and paeoniform), formal double and
anemone (or elegans) form. A wide range of colours is also available
but the darker colours perform best as they have blooms that are less
easily discoloured by frost or sunlight.
PLANTING
Camellias are sold in pots and theoretically may be planted into the
garden at any time. For best results however, avoid planting during
climatic extremes when the plants will be under undue stress, ie late
spring and summer when plants will dry out excessively; or in the
middle of winter when the ground may be frozen for long periods. As
these plants are surface-rooting they should be planted at the same
level in the garden as in their pots. Planting too deeply results in
poor growth and possible death due to root rot. Always soak the plant
thoroughly before removing it from the pot, tip it out and handle by
the root ball rather than the stem. For best results hose off as much
soil as possible from the root ball and unravel the outside roots
before planting. Spread the roots over a firm base of soil in the
bottom of the hole and backfill with soil. Water well before completing
the backfill to the level at which the plant sat in its original pot.
Camellias can be spaced at least 2 metres apart and should be at least
l metre away from a house wall or a fence. For a hedge, they can be
spaced 1 metre apart.
TRANSPLANTING
The best time to transplant is when the plant is not in active growth,
especially from late autumn to late winter. As the bulk of roots will
be as great as the bulk of the plant above ground, do not underestimate
(i) the amount of root ball that should be taken, (ii) the need to
consider pruning back the plant to reduce stress and (iii) the size of
the new planting hole. The newly transplanted bush will need diligent
watering and staking for several years to establish. If you know you
will need to move a camellia, then make a trench around at least half
of the plant about 50 cm deep and 15 cm wide, some distance from the
trunk. Back fill this trench with good soil with plenty of humus
content and keep well-watered. New roots should then commence growing
before the remaining half of the root system needs to be cut. If you
cannot avoid transplanting at the ‘wrong’ time of year, then consider
defoliating the plant and protecting it with a temporary shadecloth
shelter.
PRUNING
Prune after flowering. Camellias may grow to the size of a small tree
but size may be checked with pruning immediately after flowering, and
before spring growth commences. In practice, prune and thin to control
size and shape to keep the camellia to the desired size. Dead wood,
weak spindly growth, crossing, and low growing branches should be
removed to let in light and air. Long unproductive wood may be cut back
severely, and should result in vigorous new growth.
WATERING The
proper watering of camellias is important and they should not be
allowed to dry out. Leaf burn, appearing on plants that experience
direct sunlight, is a sign of inadequate watering. The soil should be
kept moist but not waterlogged. Drought has been a recurring phenomenon
for many years. Well-established camellias seem to be quite
drought-hardy once established but, even so, need a good soaking at
least weekly in hot, dry weather and at least monthly in dry winters.
FERTILISERS AND MULCHING
Camellias are not gross feeders and appreciate mulch more than the
heavy use of fertilisers. If they are grown in soil with a reasonable
percentage of humus they should grow and flower well. However, the
general health of the plants and the size of the blooms may be improved
by the application of fertilisers. Suitable fertilisers can be either
organic, such as cow or sheep manure, or inorganic, such as ready mixed
Camellia and Azalea foods or complete general purpose fertilisers.
Fertilise only when the soil is moist, spreading it evenly under the
bush but not against the main stem. Too much fertiliser could damage
the plant and in extreme cases, cause death. Fertilise in early spring,
and do a small follow-up in mid-summer.
The application of humus around the bush is most beneficial. The humus
material could be well-rotted compost, pine needles, leaf mould, cow or
sheep manure. Spread at a depth of about 8cm around established bushes
and 4cm around small plants. This mulching will assist in conservation
of moisture and will keep the roots cool in summer.
PESTS AND DISEASES
Camellias are generally trouble-free. Young plants may suffer more than
older ones from caterpillars. Aphids can distort young growth and scale
is occasionally seen. In late spring, old camellia leaves are often
shed — this is a normal occurrence. Viruses in camellias are generally
benign but they can cause variable yellow spotting or mottling of the
leaves and white spotting or mottling of the petals.
CAMELLIAS TO GROW Choosing
a camellia depends on personal taste. There is a very large range
available. It is best to see the plant flowering before making a
choice. The plant label should indicate when the plant will bloom, and
in general, early to mid-season bloomers are better for Canberra. A
comprehensive list is available in the Canberra Gardener, 9th Edn. Also see the Camellias Australia Inc. website at www.camellia.org.au
